Alex Dacosta is the curator behind archival vintage pop-up Smoking Vintage, which you can shop in person from now until July 30 at 514 Annette Street in the Junction. 

Dacosta began developing her taste for vintage fashion at a young age, having thrifted her own outfits since she was nine years old.

As she grew up, she began scouring online magazines, Tumblr, Instagram, and Depop for inspiration and learned which clothing brands she favored. Once she was familiar with a garment tag, she never forgot it.

"Before Depop got really popular, it was a good reference for what was in because it's formatted more like a social media platform," said Dacosta. "I would look at what girls were selling in New York City whose entire closets I loved, and I would take notes."

When it became clear that she had a talent for sourcing more unique garments than could realistically fit into her personal wardrobe, she started selling on Depop as well.

That continued until a certain celebrity caught wind, and she had to move her platform over to Instagram.

Last year, an assistant for LA-based stylist Jared Ellner reached out through Dacosta's Depop page to collaborate on a look for a celebrity client, American internet personality, Youtuber and model, Emma Chamberlain.

The multitalented celeb has gained cult status in recent years for her role as a Met Gala Vogue correspondent.

"I literally thought it might be a scam because typically people wouldn't ask you things like that on Depop, but it wasn't," laughed Dacosta, who is now friends with the assistant stylist. Dacosta ended up loaning her a vintage purse — a 1999 Miu Miu tech waist bag, to be exact — for Chamberlain to wear to Coachella 2022.

When Chamberlain tagged the Smoking Vintage brand in an Instagram post featuring her Coachella look, the page gained a lot of traction.        

In fact, the day after Chamberlain posted, Dacosta's Depop was removed for violating their terms regarding photo usage, as she had posted runway reference photos that weren't her own to show the garments' origins. "[In reality] I think my page had gotten a little too much traffic after she had tagged me," said Dacosta. 

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So she moved over to Instagram, where she continues to sell online today. When I asked what happens to the pieces rented to Emma Chamberlain once they've been returned, Dacosta explained that they go back up for sale, unless it's a piece from her personal collection. 

Those she will never sell, but instead reserves them for event and editorial rentals.

Dacosta thought it was funny that the Miu Miu purse didn't sell for months after she first got it back from Chamberlain. "People probably thought she had purchased it," she mused.

If you're a fan of Emma Chamberlain, a vintage clothing lover, and a size small (as Dacosta points out, Chamberlain is rather petite), you could get lucky and end up with a wardrobe staple previously worn by the celebrity. 

Another reason to shop the Smoking Vintage collection is simply Dacosta's good taste.

Her inventory consists of 90s-2000s vintage, ranging from lower-end mall brands to higher-end designers like Prada, Miu Miu, and Blumarine, as well as pieces from independent European labels and ravewear brands.

Since the Junction pop-up is her first retail space, it's an exclusive opportunity to try on these designer pieces in person.

The shop is manned by Dacosta and her mom, who she calls her biggest supporter and best friend. Hours are from 12 p.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday-Saturday and 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday.