Atomic 10
Atomic 10 is named for the tenth element, present throughout this restaurant: neon.
Brightly glowing neon signs at this small spot are rivalled by the vibrant colours and flavours of tacos, sandwiches, snacks and cocktails served here.
The space was formerly home to Stella's Lunch Box, and has inherited the cafe's original wood flooring and bar. A massive seventy-year-old neon sign decorates the interior.
Cassava fries ($8) are thickly hand cut, intensely starchy, crispy and salty and served with a chipotle crema.
Tostones ($8) are freshly pressed by hand in a tortilla press so they're some of the tastiest I've had, nice and big and flat with a chewy centre and crispy edges, served with a bright aji verde.
Carne Asada tacos are $17 but come in an order of three and are loaded to capacity. Doubled up Sonora corn tortillas cradle aged striploin steak, pico de gallo, guacamole and some sharp feta without getting soggy or breaking apart.
Pad Thai tacos ($16) are more inventive, a large hunk of beer battered cod tossed with lots of sticky house pad thai sauce made with OJ, spices and sweet chili. Pico de gallo, bean sprouts and cilantro bring in the fresh elements of pad thai.
Carnitas tacos ($14) are the most reasonably priced but also simplest and least loaded, a simple but satisfactory combination of roast pork belly, white onion and cilantro. Makes the best canvas for one of their three house salsas: a verde, roja and biting mango habanero.
A Pollo Loco tostone-wich ($14) is the most unusual creation served here. A range of sandwiches can be made as tortas with bread, or in this way with smashed plantains as the "bread." The Pollo Loco has fried chicken tossed in sweet chili sauce with tomato, lettuce, cucumber, carrot and chipotle aioli.
It's a huge, messy sandwich, and the combination of the salty, crunchy tostones and the fried chicken is intense but tasty.
A Blueberry Mint Mojito ($14) is made with the usual rum, soda, mint and lime but also incorporates blueberry simple syrup that lends a fuschia hue and a bubblegum flavour.
There's also a strawberry version for the same price or you can just go for the refreshing, no-frills classic version for $12.
A Margarita Picante ($16) is my personal fave: tequila, Cointreau, simple syrup and lime punched up with jalapeno, chili and honey.
If you're not into spice, skip it and go with a Classica ($14).
Also watch out for brunch here, including items like ricotta guava pancakes, and rotating items on the menu.
Hector Vasquez