Harry’s Steak House pays homage to Harry Barberian and one of his first restaurants on Church by the same name.

Run by staff who still have ties to Barberian’s, the restaurant is housed in the space formerly home to The Black Angus, a steak house opened by Barberian’s alumni.

A smouldering charcoal grill is visible almost immediately upon entry, filling the 60-seat space with a delicious smoky aroma.

Brass, neon, cattle horns, rich upholstery and Ralph Lauren light fixture detailing set off a classic old Hollywood feel.

A chicken liver mousse ($22) is a special from a sparse menu of simply titled items that invite discussion between guests and servers. Ingredients in a mousse may change, or perhaps a tartare will be on special another night.

This silky creation is made with chicken liver, duck fat, cognac, pepper and salt, a fine basic thing executed well and served with fried onions and toasts.

Harry’s Loaded Wedge Salad ($12) is textbook steak house tradition, a dense and pearly section of lettuce smothered in chunky and funky blue cheese dressing and scattered with bacon, chives and halved cherry tomatoes. It’s a simple ensemble that’s always pleasing when executed at a high level like this: smoky bacon, strong cheese and bright tomato.

All steaks are aged at Barberian’s but butchered here, thicker options available for all cuts. Everything is grilled over sugar maple charcoal, which burns slow and imparts a lot of flavour.

Harry’s Rib Steak ($65) served with bone in is wet aged 28 days then dry aged three weeks at Barberian’s; USDA grade and hit with a little of Barberian’s signature steak spice, like most everything here. 

Moist and blush pink inside with an almost crispy golden brown crust, the perfectly balanced seasoning of sea salt, herbs and spices, garlic and onion is the final stroke of a masterpiece. Fluffy, salty, hand-cut fries and a classic blistered tomato accompany.

Fancy Mushrooms ($9) gracefully accompany the main event, shiitake and maitake, given a straight-up sautee with butter and garlic that brings out their earthy fragrance and smooth, creamy texture.

There are typically two whole fish served on the bone and a filet available every day as well, say, orata and rainbow trout. They also do oysters on the charcoal grill.

A formidable list of Scotch, Irish, and Bourbon whiskies (such as the Blanton in this one) can be mixed into a cocktail like a Whiskey Sour or Old Fashioned.

Otherwise, all spirits are served on the rocks, and everything is a double by default, fancier wines and spirits poured tableside.

More than anything, Harry’s carries on a legacy. Just don’t forget to give mascot Chestnuts (a cow statue outside) a friendly pat on your way in and out.