Taqueria Vegana
Taqueria Vegana is redefining Mexican street food with its vegan tacos, burritos, and quesadillas.
The plant-based taqueria is proudly owned by Karla Hernández and Chef Abel Páez.
The couple, both born and raised in Cuernavaca, Mexico, began their partnership at Classico Vegano. The now-closed restaurant was highly known for its takeout tacos and inclusive menu offerings.
After moving to Toronto four years ago, Hernández, who became vegan shortly after arriving, found it challenging to find Mexican food that met her dietary needs.
"The idea was born out of the lack of great vegan options in the city," Hernández shared with blogTO. "And with his [Páez] background and me being vegan, we just started creating these new items."
Chef Páez has been in the culinary industry nearly all his life. He grew up in his family's restaurant in Mexico and worked at several establishments in the city, including Bar Buca and Joey Sherway.
Hernández, who has a background in design, envisioned Taqueria Vegana as a blend of traditional Mexican taqueria elements with a modern twist.
She aimed to move away from stereotypical associations like mariachi bands and sombreros, creating a space that is both vibrant and contemporary.
Welcoming from the moment I walked in, I loved the use of bright, bold colours throughout the space. Inside, I enjoyed the lovely sounds of Latin pop playing on the speakers, while outside, there was plenty of picnic table seating for a casual dining experience.
As with the design, the menu fuses traditional Mexican dishes with modern cooking techniques and plant-based ingredients.
The Capeado ($6.99) is a unique take on a classic Mexican fish taco. Instead of fish, they use tender oyster mushrooms deep-fried in a seaweed batter to mimic the original taste.
They're served on a double corn tortilla slathered with their house-made Morita mayo and topped with crunchy purple coleslaw.
The Morita mayo is made with sun-dried jalapeños and pumpkin seeds. It offers a sweet and smoky flavour that is irresistibly delicious.
Hernández's favourite menu item, the Capeado is crispy yet light, and packed with umami from the mushrooms.
Similar to the Capeado, the Capeaditos ($13.99) offer a shareable plate of deep-fried oyster mushrooms, perfect for snacking with a friend or two.
It comes with a generous portion of the delicious Morita mayo for dipping.
For another Mexican-inspired staple, the Quesabirrias ($22.99) comes with three savoury birria quesadillas and a side of birria broth.
These quesadillas are filled with various mushrooms - oyster, cremini, and portobello - for a depth of flavour and texture.
If you're eager to sample a variety of tacos, the 1 of Each Trio ($19.99) is a great choice.
This trio comes with one Carne Asada, one Impossible Chorizo, and one Seitan Carnitas, each topped with traditional fixings of cilantro and finely diced white onions.
The Carne Asada is made from soy protein that is seasoned and charred to have a satisfying meaty texture.
The Seitan Carnitas features braised seitan, a popular plant-based meat alternative made from hydrated gluten. It comes with pickled red onion for a pop of brightness.
My favourite of the three was the Impossible Chorizo. The house-made chorizo is marinated in adobo and comes with charred onion and potatoes. Its red brick colour and smoky taste make it nearly indistinguishable from its traditional pork counterparts.
The tacos are served with two side salsas. If you're looking for something spicy, the green salsa taquera, made with jalapenos and bell pepper, has a great kick. The salsa roja, on the other hand, offers a sweet, smoky flavour with its blend of tomatoes and Morita peppers.
For something comforting, try the Flour Quesadilla ($21.99). It comes with your choice of protein (I went for my favourite, the impossible chorizo) and is filled with vegan mozzarella.
Creamy and filling, I thoroughly enjoyed alternating dips of the quesadilla between the tofu cream, a vegan play on sour cream, and the house-made guac.
The Burrito Jr ($12.99) is another hearty option, featuring your choice of protein neatly wrapped in a flour tortilla with guacamole, chipotle cream, vegan mozzarella, lettuce, red rice, and pinto beans. It's served with a side of crunchy tortilla chips and salsa.
To drink, there are plenty of fun and refreshing beverages available. The Hibiscus Juice ($3.99), from Montreal-based brand, Zamalek, tastes similar to the popular hibiscus-infused tea commonly found at Mexican taquerias. It's cool, refreshing, and pleasantly tart.
Parch makes non-alcoholic cocktails ($7.99). The sparkling Desert Margherita hit every note - tangy, citrusy, sweet, and salty, it pairs well with any of the menu offerings.
The fast-casual spot shines a light on vegan Mexican cuisine. And although you won't find a classic slow-cooked meat birria taco or spit-grilled al pastor, Taqueria Vegana demonstrates that plant-based can be just as satisfying.
"Our focus is always on flavour and making great vegan food, and that goes hand in hand with breaking down the stereotype of vegan food." Hernández shared about the brand's vision. "We want a space where everyone feels welcome, not just people who are plant-based or vegan."
Taqueria Vegana is located at 1543 Dupont Street.
Fareen Karim