Wellington Market food hall at The Well
Wellington Market at The Well is a destination-worthy food hall where a splendid collection of local vendors hawk a cornucopia of delicious things.
Just days post-opening, the locally-focused market buzzes with hordes of eager eaters keen on savouring something new. From Hooky's and Sweetie Pie to Rosie's Burgers and Gus Tacos, the market is populated with a who's who of Toronto's fast-casual royalty.
What diners won't find, are golden arches, chicken coated in the colonel's secret blend of herbs and spices, or towers of ho-hum, sesame-flecked pretzel twists.
"We always knew that the cornerstone of [The Well] would be a food market," says general manager, Anthony Casalanguida. "Toronto is great because of all the ethnic groups that make it vibrant, make it special. We thought, 'Why don't we create a market that reflects what makes Toronto great?'"
What began with a list of over 600 possible vendors has resulted in a cherry-picked group of 40-plus businesses. Among them, visitors will find familiar names, with new concepts, like Japadog and Doraji (from the team behind King West's Nook), sating the need for innovation.
"We could do the same old, same old, and go for the same brands," says Casalanguida, of the team's approach. Instead, the team opted for a luring mix of "up-and-coming brands, first to market, and best in class."
"The greatest benefit that we can offer the community," he adds, "is just the variety that we have."
Strolling through the supersized, Giannone Petricone-designed space, it's clear that Casalanguida is right.
To your left, there's a diner hoisting an over-dressed burger to their salivating mouth, while to your right there's someone engulfed in bone-broth steam while their date ignores Canada's Food Guide in favour of crisp, chewy morsels of nutty ube waffles.
For the indecisive, it's almost too much to handle.
The best place to start? With a meander through little harvest, a market within the market, offering premium groceries and edible rarities.
"We want to cover the daily necessities," says owner Peter Ho, while adding that the team also strives to stock the shelves with a wealth of high-end products. "Honestly, we just put all of our favourites around the store," he adds.
Visitors will delight in the easy access to staples alongside hard-to-find, imported goodies, like San Carlo and Bret's chips and organic Esuminac maple syrup. Love a specific brand? Tell the team, and they'll do their best to bring it in.
Continue the shopping at À La Table, a Quebec import where the team builds cheese and charcuterie plates on demand.
Ideal for picnics and light lunches, cocktail hour or hostess gifts, customizable boxes brim with cheeses and cured meats from Ontario and Quebec, fresh and candied fruit, nuts, house jams, jellies, and more.
Though the menu distinguishes between regular and fancy boxes, each assortment, including the basic Box For 1 ($20), comprises a number of tempting treats few would decline.
From there, it's best to rely on your gut. Despite the original stalls, they still fit into what Casalanguida calls "traditional categories" meaning that whatever you're craving, you'll likely find it here.
At the Samosarie, kaleidoscopic doughs are patted around a slew of diverse fillings for a delightful array of samosas, empanadas and patties. Pick and choose among the vibrant options and carry a dozen ($11.95) along with tamarind, cilantro or mango chutney ($1.25), to your table, office or home.
"It's not traditional at all," says owner Ashvin Gehani, of the coloured doughs the team is known for. Inspired by the way macarons are identified by the colour of their shell, Gehani opted to tint his products in a similar way.
He also drew inspiration from a world of flavours. As he explains, "every country has a half-moon shell of something."
At Wellington Market, the team offers allergy-friendly vegan, vegetarian and halal meat-based morsels, from green saag paneer samosas and spicy Mexican bean and cheese empanadas to potato and cheddar pierogies.
Spying La Cubana in the market's back corner is likely to warm the hearts of anyone familiar with the breezy, bright Cuban spot.
"We always wondered how we'd do in a situation like this," says Pablo Mozo, who owns La Cubana with sister Corinna Mozo, who is also the chef. "When they approached me I loved the idea. I was happy we were getting something like [Wellington Market] here."
Food that transports you to abuelita's cocina, the Pork Shoulder Plate ($24) is a rib-sticking heap of slow-roasted meat, crisp tostones, rice and beans and a tart tangle of red cabbage slaw.
Served on downy, house-baked bread, the Veggie Medianoche ($15) trades pork for fat slices of queso fresco, creamy avocado, fresh vegetables and a slick of chipotle mayo.
With mojo-dipped Yuca Frita ($6), it's a meal that's naughty and nice, and unlikely to cause dramatic afternoon energy slumps.
For those who can eat like a beast and still face the middle of the day undaunted, Rosie's Burgers is a stellar choice. Doling out some of the city's most popular burgers, it's a spot you're unlikely to find sans line.
Towering assemblages of two aggressively-smashed patties, American cheese and pickles, The Rosie ($12.50) and The Classic ($11.75) boast subtle, yet key, differences.
Order the Rosie, if you like lettuce, tomato and zesty Rosie's sauce, and the latter if you think lettuce belongs on salad and prefer it replaced with diced onions.
Crisp and fiery, buttermilk fried halal chicken fills out a tender bun in the team's Spicy Chicken Sando ($11.50). Order Frings ($6.50) to quell the heat between bites. Better yet? Finish off with Dad's Banana Pudding ($6.00), and chase that chicken with a series of plush, banana-perfumed bites.
For those seeking calm in the middle of the food-driven storm, tranquil moments can be grabbed at The Pier Bar, with wine, beer or one of the venue's classic cocktails or spirit-free options.
Prefer to stay firmly planted in the thick of it? Since the entire space, including its two patios, is licensed, hauling your drink to your favourite spot is also always an option.
Wellington Market is located at 486 Front Street West, on the lower ground level of The Well.
Fareen Karim